Travel Regret: San Juan de Gaztelugatxe
I don’t even bother trying to pick favorite places in Spain; there are too many to count. Likewise, I can probably count on two fingers cities and towns I haven’t found utterly absorbing. So far, one of the regions I’ve connected with the most is the north, along the coast, in Basque country. Dense, green, and full of dramatic peaks rising above lush valleys, the landscape of Basque country is breathtaking. San Juan de Gaztelugatxe is the ideal example—which is why it’s also one of my travel regrets.
We drove through this protected biotope (an area of land and water earmarked for conservation) on a road trip through northern Spain. We stopped overnight in Bilbao, which we’d heard was an exciting city full of cultural richness. And while the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao is an art and design marvel and the food in the city is excellent, Bilbao wasn’t to our taste. So the following morning, ready to get back on the road, we stowed our bags and thermos of tea back in the car my in-laws loaned us for the trip, and turned the key.
Crickets.
A battery connection had come snapped off, but we didn’t know that for nearly three hours—the amount of time it took to find a towing service, have the car taken to the dealership, and complete the repair. By the time we actually got back on the road, we were nearly half a day behind in our itinerary. Our last stop of the day would be San Sebastián, where we’d meet friends and stay overnight, and we were feeling the time crunch.
We piloted the car onto the winding routes along the coast. The water was scenic enough on its own . . . and then we came upon San Juan de Gaztelugatxe. Tucked between Bakio and Bermeo, it’s a much-photographed stop made popular first by pirates, and centuries later by Game of Thrones fans on pilgrimages to the series’ various Spanish filming locations (Gaztelugatxe stood in for Dragonstone; its actual name translates to “Castle Rock”).
We got out to admire the clifftop church connected to the shore by a stone bridge with a 241-step staircase. We snapped pictures of the island—and its arches and tunnels, carved by years of water beating against its sides—silhouetted against the Bay of Biscay. We sighed in awe.
Then we looked at the clock, and realized we wouldn’t have much time to make any other stops before San Sebastián if we took the time to scramble down the hillside and over to its stony staircase. I paused, my foot dangling over the top step of the downward approach to Gaztelugatxe, before finally giving up and turning around. We wouldn’t visit the island that day, or ring the chapel bell three times for good luck.
Regardless of the fact that the chapel we now see on the island isn’t the ninth-century original, or even the twelfth-century reproduction—it’s been destroyed many times by fire and storms, and rebuilt again—I regret not taking the time to visit Gaztelugatxe, its structures, and its stone-strewn beaches. Until I can get out to visit again, I’m contenting myself with pictures, and reminding myself that whenever I connect with a place on a visceral level, there’s always time to visit.
Tips for Visiting San Juan de Gaztelugatxe
The best times to visit are spring and fall.
Because Game of Thrones kind of ruined it for everyone, there are often long lines to get in. On holidays, between June 15 and September 30, and all weekends from the last week of March through December, you now have to book a ticket (free) in advance to explore the island.
The walk can be challenging, so go slow if you need to and stop at one of the benches along the way to rest.
Wear sneakers or sturdy walking shoes; the trek is rocky and sometimes slippery from the splashing of water.
As long as you’re physically able, don’t not go. The views from the mainland over the island are incredible, and said to be even better from the island itself.
